Falls down in the Holler

Cloudy skies and cool temperatures cloaked the first day out on this particular adventure. The only immediate goal, an overnight in Berryville, enabled delaying departure until afternoon and a relatively easy path southward.

The following day did not look much different.  The northern edge of the Boston Mountains stood shrouded in low flying clouds, encapsulated by an over-saturated air mass.  It promised to clear later in the day, and the cool, overcast morning would undoubtedly prove an advantage on the trail.

Arriving at the road leading to the trailhead, access appeared questionable, at first. A friendly road grader passing through assured no difficulty though.  He had only just littered the road with new gravel through to the site in question.

This early Tuesday morning hosted only one other soul, who had departed on their journey earlier in the day.  Another man and his son were only just embarking, quickly disappearing into the misty morning.  After a few more preparations of my own, vanishing into the fog of the Ponca Wilderness at Hemmed-in-Hollow, the trek began.

The first part of the trail is a Siren, luring travelers gently down the first km, among the hardwoods lining this massive box canyon along the Buffalo River.  It quietly descends 60 meters over the first kilometre, hosting a special sort of solitude this mid-week in March.

The next couple of kilometres test the resolve, as awareness of the descent begins to become more and more apparent, dropping another 275 meters.  A graceful landing near the bottom of the canyon finishes off the final km, meandering up and down through the minor sub-basin and up through the narrow opening into the canyon, offering up its much anticipated reward.

Somewhere along the way, the early morning fog was replaced by clear blue skies.  Rain in recent days, to include the prior night, ensured a good flow from the horsetail falls.  Showering down nearly 70 meters, this highest waterfall between the Rockies and the Appalachians made the perfect setting for a little lunch and relaxation.

It had taken a couple of hours to get to this point.  There was no hurry, but anticipation of a longer return journey urged tackling the ascent sooner rather than later.  It took about the same amount of time, with much more effort than the descent.  Late afternoon tourists just then making the trip down paused to chat for a moment.  The same general phrase issued from most, "Are we there yet?"

Silence prevailed throughout most expedition, until near the end of the trail.  A group of Apaches broke the silence, shattering the peace of the forest momentarily, before quickly moving on.  Their target apparently lay elsewhere, and arrival back at the trailhead occurred without incident.  A sense of accomplishment accompanied the remainder of the journey, and fascination towards the construction of this massive feature in the Ozarks.  Lost in thought, few stops seemed worthy enough to interrupt the reverie; that is, excepting moments along beside the highway at Gaither Mountain Overlook, where one can see for miles and miles, and of course, a healthy, replenishing meal on the way to the final destination for the evening.

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Further Reading

Hike to Hemmed-in-Hollow

Buffalo National River - National Park Service