November is one of the best times to visit Arkansas. I continue to explore the potential of displaying photography associated with the journey down and back using video.
The road passed south through Missouri, branching off into the back roads from Fordland through Willhoit.
Crossing the state line, a nice place to pause was found at Pigeon Creek, before journeying on to Norfork.
A few days were spent wandering about Greers Ferry Lake area, to include Mossy Bluff National Nature Trail, Bridal Veil Falls, Big Creek Natural Area, as well as Blanchard Springs.
Snow blanketed the roadways on the journey home, with colder than necessary temperatures preventing any further exploring.
Loosely following the Santa Fe Trail out of Kansas City, clear skies, warming temperatures, and empty roads provided the perfect backdrop for an 8-day, 2400 km journey across Kansas into Colorado and back.
Sites included Pawnee Rock State Historic Site, Fort Larned National Historic Site, Santa Fe Trail Tracks site, Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site, rummaging around old Florence, along the Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area, Brown's Creek Trail, St Elmo ghost town, Temple Canyon, Historic Arkansas Riverwalk, Little Jerusalem State Park, and Monument Rocks National Historic Landmark, and a various points in between.
All were captured on film and transferred to video in a continuing venture into documenting these adventures in that format. Not all photos were included in the video above, on a few sites. They were separated into individual feature films below.
Wandering to, through, and beyond Crowder State Park along Missouri Highway 13
One could not have asked for a better day to wander the rural quadrant of eastern northwest Missouri. Skies started off clear, and the cool 24°C of the morning certified it as the perfect chance outing. Weather transitioned along the path northward though, as Cumulus slowly began closing out the sun. The edges of a storm raging in eastern Nebraska were slowly reaching into the area. A small town where a friend spends most of his free time appeared along the way, a quick visit seemed in order, and the adventure began.
Farmers Exchange Building — Mt Moriah, MO
Mt Moriah, established about 1867, sits on the west side of the Thompson River floodplain northwest of US-136. It appears to have been a tight knit little community, and likely still is, though probably not quite as populated. A lack of phone service prevented visiting though. I spoke with some local folks that held the same last name. They explained how to get to his place, but something got lost in the translation and the quest was abandoned.
Stoklasa Memorial Chapel — Cainsville, MO
A little further down the road, Cainsville appeared under sunnier skies. Originally the site of a watermill in 1854, it is not a particularly remarkable town. There are a few interesting structures, but is a mirror of the many mostly abandoned rural towns in this part of Missouri. Ancestors lived there once upon a time, in the late 1800s, and the family farm still hosts some descendants. Harassing distant relations unannounced seemed improper though, and hiking awaited at Crowder State Park.
The day had only warmed a couple of degrees °C from its start, and with clearing skies, Tall Oaks Trail enabled a round of contemplation. A return trip in early spring or fall may be in order, when the population of insects is not quite so lively.
Tall Oaks Trail at Crowder State Park
With the afternoon waning, the road unfolded again. Navigation indicated it would only take a few hours to traverse the 140 or so kilometers back to base, if you followed the suggested route. Paper maps and intuition would lead the way from here though.
Daviess County Courthouse — Gallatin, MO
Gallatin was the next town down the blacktop. On this occasion, the streets and courthouse stood mostly quiet. Multiple flags flapped in the breeze, as a 3-inch ordinance rifle from the Civil War stood guard.
Founded in 1837, it was the site of an election day battle a year later. Latter-day Saints burned and looted this and other nearby towns, in conflict over their right to vote, and as part of a larger confrontation raging at the time.
Turning south, Hamilton appeared next. It owes existence largely to the railroad. The Hamilton Town Company formed to develop a tract of unsettled prairie belonging to the US Government in 1854, right along the rails of the Hannibal & St. Joseph Railroad.
Inside the J.C. Penny Boyhood Home — Hamilton, MO
Come to find out, it is also the boyhood home of businessman and entrepreneur, J.C. Penny. The house in which he spent his youth is a showcase of how things appeared at that time of his life. It is not the original location, but a bit more prominent place on the main drag of town.
Caldwell County Courthouse, Missouri
Kingston lay just a little further south, nominating itself as the last stop of the day. Laid out in 1843 to replace Far West, as seat of Caldwell county, it is mostly remarkable. The courthouse, silent and empty on this Labor Day, while a block long row of buildings from a more prosperous era sag and decay across the street.
Tryst Falls to Rocky Hollow and on to Crooked River
Space in the schedule enabled another wandering nearby, and discovery of a couple of interesting little spots to get away from the hum of population. The first stop was somewhat planned. The following were more incidental.
A few miles east of Kearney, just below a 1920 two-span 50 meter arch bridge, a quaint little picnic park in a shaded hollow hosts one of the few natural waterfalls in this part of the world.
Tryst Falls, flowing out of Williams Creek, was little more than trickle over the 2–3 meter drop to the pool below. It is likely more impressive after a heavy rain, or long periods of rain.
The limestone formation over which the water falls is intriguing and offered interesting scenery to explore. Long parallel ruts carved about 20 cm into the fractured stone surface suggest some sort of repeated mechanical use.
1913 postcard of Tryst Falls - Missouri Valley Special Collections, Kansas City Public Library
Indeed, according to a postcard summary from the Missouri Valley Special Collections at the Kansas City Public Library, a water mill operated at the falls during the mid-1800s.
The shady little hollow next to the falls provides a quiet space for a picnic, and was once a meeting spot for young couples. Hence the name of the park.
It also has a place in the history of slavery. Until the 1990s, a memorial plaque identified this as the location a mother once drowned her five children with a mind of sparing them a lifetime of subjugation. The marker has since been muted to only state “Clay County Historical Society Historical Landmark.”
Another Clay County Park caught my eye 2 km back the way I had come. Thinking I would just catch it another time, proximity insisted I return now.
Rocky Hollow Park proved intriguing on this first visit. The quiet little fishing lake hosts a fabulous scene of wildflowers halfway along the entrance road, and another of sunflowers a little further down. The lake appears mostly inaccessible, without mucking about in the surrounding wetlands.
Blue Jay Trail Access
Holding a bit of time in my hands, a quick and random search around the map produced Blue Jay Trail Access. A few kilometers later, I found a mostly overgrown trail that suggested I come back better prepared for a deep dive.
There was still time for another quick glance at the map, and I found Crooked River Conservation Area only a short hop down the road. As with the last stop, some things are just better planned in advance.
Crooked River Conservation Area
The parking lot in the northwest corner of the conservation area overlooks wide open fields of densely packed weeds. A wide path leads into the area, but is restricted to authorized vehicles. The map of the area available from a little wooden box suggested other access points might yield more interesting results, and I made a mental note to attempt a future, more researched visit.
On this visit, the journey passed by way of Joplin for a quick visit to Grand Falls. Located on Shoal Creek in the southern suburbs, it is the largest continuously flowing natural waterfall in the state. After passing over a man-made dam, the creek travels a short distance over a 50 meter wide ledge of solid chert, and plunges 3.5 meters crashing into jagged crags, then flows peacefully to the south. Lots of folks were enjoying the cool waters on this hot day.
There really is no straightforward path to north central Arkansas from there, but it was little matter. Wandering the back highways towards US-65, we encountered Pea Ridge National Military Park . It was a little disappointing to discover we had arrived just in time to miss an artillery demonstration, but the museum some amusement and a break from the winding roads.
The opportunity to visit Thorncrown Chapel appeared a bit further down the road from there. Having missed the chance to visit this spot on previous occasions, we decided to pause for a moment. This awesome wooden structure, in the spirit of the Prairie School of architecture popularized by Frank Lloyd Wright, rises over 14 meters from the forest floor. It contains 425 windows covering nearly 600 square meters, and fits neatly into the surrounding environment.
Bicycle Street Art in Eureka Springs
Continuing on to Eureka Springs, we paused for sustenance at Aquarius Taqueria. We had noted it on several occasions, but never took a moment to check it out. This time, we were glad we did. They have awesome tacos! The day was getting late though, so we blazed a path to our final destination near the shores of Greers Ferry Lake.
Most of the following day, we spent enjoying enjoying company, but did manage to get out on the trail a couple of times. Collins Creek is always a cool spot to relax in the afternoon heat.
While wandering about there, I stumbled on a proposal in progress. A couple of girls set up the question of the day on a rock, and after a few short minutes, the couple came wandering down the path. From the reaction, I am pretty sure the answer was “Yes.”
The next afternoon, a trip down to Woolly Hollow State Park found a pleasant surprise. The full length of the Huckleberry Trail was open again. On the last visit, the falls portion had been closed. The falls were not much more than a trickle, but were surrounded by fantastic expanses of what is assumed to be exposed basalt flows. The weathering across these formations suggest there are times the water is quite aggressive.
Out to Mauldin Creek and back from the falls proved a nice quiet hike. Little bits of flora peppered the abundance of green throughout the forest, and the only sounds, those of the katydids.
The heat of the afternoon begged a dip in Lake Bennett. The cool, clear waters of the lake to myself fit the bill perfectly, and after floating about for a bit, an ice cream cone from the snack stand did too.
Wandering the back roads to base camp, the remainder of the day was spent lazing about. We considered another dip in Greers Ferry Lake, but satisfied ourselves with watch the sun splashdown from the shores.
The path homeward was rather uneventful. We paused momentarily in Green Forest, and even more briefly in Oak Grove, but did enjoy just a little more time at Aunt’s Creek on Table Rock Lake. It was good to finally break away again, even if only for a few days. Future expeditions southward will surely unfurl other interesting distractions.
Heading south one morning, an unexpected battle in local weather patterns, over an already saturated part of Missouri, forced a change in plans. Exiting at Butler, a sign indicating the direction of the Bates County Museum prompted a memory that ancestors had roamed the area. A quick side trip seemed in order, before returning to the city.
A pleasant surprise lurked in the second floor of the old 1915 Bates County Poor Farm, which houses the museum. Artifacts of all manner document the history of the county, beginning with the Osage people to recent times.
Well-curated exhibits showcase the simplicity of pioneer life, hardships of the Civil War, and turn of the century prosperity.
Several themed rooms display a variety of artifacts from local life and culture, including some from native and Science Fiction author and Robert Heinlein.
Two buildings additional building outside provide a picture of rural school life in the early 1900s. Both were rescued and moved to the location by the Bates County Historical Society. The Wilcox School is the process of restoration, but 1901 Nyhart School is restored, furnished, and open to the public.
George Caleb Bingham painting of General Order No. 11
The staff was helpful in locating documentation on ancestry. They also gave us a overview of the history of the county. Folks suffered hard times here indeed, but enjoyed good times in more recent history.
We could have lingered much longer, but storms began to unleash their fury. Creeks and other drainage ditches all around were rising. A photo the main building, and more stories of the history of the county would have to wait for another time.
A solo trek to Geary Lake Falls overshadowed by tragedy
Windows down and music up, I made my way west along the back highways of Kansas one clear and sunny Friday morning. Two spots in the northern Flint Hills had peaked my interest on this typical journey of discovery. Some of my ancestors had helped build and settle the town of Milford and I was curious to have a look around. In addition, some report that Geary State Fishing Lake hosts the biggest and most beautiful waterfalls in the state.
Milford City Park in Kansas
I did not linger long in Milford, having arrived much later than expected, and being rather distracted by thoughts of an earlier event along the road. Just north of of Manhattan, I had stumbled on the scene of a recent and terrible accident. Aiding and comforting survivors of an overturned vehicle until officials arrived became the most important task of the day.
Tragic accident at US-24 & US-77 in Riley County, Kansas
While the stop at Milford City Park afterwards did offer a good place to collect myself, my heart was now only half interested in the journey. I considered turning home, but decided to press on, having traveled all that way. Geary Lake is only a short jump down the road from Milford, and just south of Junction City. It proved a much better spot for reflection, trying to forget what I had seen, while trying not to forget. White noise from water crashing down tends to obliterate more than just other sounds.
Path across Geary Lake Dam
It is really easy to access these falls. A short dirt path across the earth dam leads to the top of the biggest and best waterfalls that I have yet seen in the state of Kansas.
Atop Geary Lake Falls
Getting below the falls requires a bit more effort though. A steep gravel path leads down into the forest below, then another leads along the stream to the base of the falls. The path had recently been cleared, making navigation easy. A few people were walking up and down on the falls taking photos too. I was not prepared to get that involved, but may come back and give it try. A few more people arrived just as I was leaving. I suspect the site has the potential to get rather busy.
Below Geary Lake Falls
Crossing back homeward with more a bit determination than the trip out, the interstate provided more space to consider events of the day. While glad to have had the opportunity to wander alone for a day, I was disappointed in how things turned for others, but still glad I had been able to assist.
