Homestead bound through the Ice Age

Exploring the era of homesteading in the Kansas-Nebraska Territory, with a side trip through the Ice Age

Crossing over the Missouri River just west of Rock Port, a lonesome brown sign indicating the site of a hysterical marker drew our attention. The trail led quickly away from the highway and down to the banks of the Missouri River to a National Historical Landmark that had seen better days.  Overgrown and mostly inaccessible, this largest of a handful of surviving U.S. Army Corps of Engineers dredges once kept the Missouri River channel clean and free from debris from the time of its birth in 1932 to 1965.

Returning to the highway that would lead on to the intended destination for the afternoon, a pause seemed necessary to investigate the rustic river town of Brownville, just next door to the old steamboat.  The town holds a couple of claims to fame.  It was founded by Richard Brown, before Nebraska attained statehood, and served as the location by which a certain Daniel Freeman became the first homesteader to file a claim under the Homestead Act of 1862.

The scene may appear completely different during any other season, but in August there is very little visible beyond the rows and rows of corn en route to Beatrice.  Perhaps, it is is the reason that little town does not have to put much effort into visibility.  

The goal post for the day appeared a mile or so west of town.  Homestead National Monument of America is an intriguing walk through the era of homesteading on the Great Plains.  The focal point of the site, the Heritage Center, showcases an array of displays and artifacts related to time, and a luxurious cabin from 1867 gives folks a peek at life on the frontier. Up the road a piece, the Freeman School presents a look inside the education system of the early 1900s, while the Education Center shows off the tools of the farm trade.

Heading back to our own homestead passed through Blue Rapids in Kansas, somewhat intentionally. A wandering just over a year ago had encountered a group of individuals in distress from this little town.  The subsequent events cast a shadow over an otherwise beautiful day, but later curiosity about their origins led to the discovery of a one-of-a-kind monument hosting the oldest rocks in the entire state.  

All about the circle that may or may not have at one time been a square, other random curiosities appeared, identifying the history of community in Blue Rapids.  Some were more intentional than others, but all represented a close community proud of its past.

Brownville, Nebraska to Blue Rapids, Kansas by way of Homestead National Monument in Nebraska - August 2020

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Further Reading

Captain Meriwether Lewis Dredge
National Archives Catalog

Brownville, Nebraska
City of Brownsville

Homestead National Monument of America
National Park Service

Monument to the Ice Age
Topeka Capital-Journal

Hope beyond Little Sweden

Stone bridge at Lake Wabaunsee - July 2020

The final leg of the return route from Colorado, crossing the eastern Great Plains and Flint Hills of Kansas.

Launching down the road, headed for home on this final day of the expedition.  Everything was left to chance.  Brief pauses at random small towns turned out a few amusements.  There were not as many displays of patriotism as one might expect on this Fourth of July. 

Hoisington offered up a few artistic renderings.  Urban landscapes covered a few nearby buildings, and in place of flags that eventually fade and fall apart, the town put up metal designs by a local artist.

Stepping back in time further down the road, Claflin presented an entirely different take on art.  One full city block appears restored to a certain time period.  Which in particular is not entirely certain, as one or two of the structures appear to be different era.

The navigator missed out on the initial Coronado Heights expedition a few month ago, but got another chance to survey the situation.  Lying in the path as it was seemed sufficient reason to pause there again.  The view from mountain offered as many amazing scenes from the surrounding prairie as before, and will always be a good respite from the road.

In the shadow of the majestic swell in the middle of the savanna, a lonesome painter toiled away, turning out an array artifacts to ensure the little town of Lindsborg remained solidly branded as Little Sweden USA.  Very few others could be found out and about otherwise.  Masked hysteria still held a firm grip on the community.

There is hope just beyond that.  A Michigan immigrant and merchant wandered through here a hundred years or so ago, likely thinking the very same.  Numerous years of successful business in the spot convinced him there should always be "Hope" in Kansas.

Cruising through White City found tributes to the rails that founded many of the towns in the area.  A tribe from Chicago immediately named this junction in honor superintendent of the Neosho division of the Katy Railroad, likely to ensure appropriate compensation from the same.

Dwight also swelled from the crossroads to offer support in exchange for stops along the Rock Island Line.  Established about the same time as the rail began to pass through, this town showcases a local namesake instead, that of one that donated the land for a church.

Perched at a lofty height 444 meters, the history of Alta Vista is similar to the remainder of towns dotting this stretch of KS-4.  Traffic is not quite what it was in those days, and population tends to have diminished in parallel sequence, and only local stone buildings remain from the glory days gone by.

KS-4 stretches on, seemingly forever.  It is a long straight shot from out west, and even the road begins to get bored with itself finally, turning this way and that, as it rises into the Flint Hills.

The last excusion to Lake Wabaunsee only explored the waterfalls below the spillway.  Encountering this quiet little resort community again, a desire to see a bit more urged a brief detour around the site.  Fireworks stood at the ready, though a more retardant site platform might be preferred by others. 

Eskridge yielded little more than on the last visit to this booming metropolis.  Affording little more than a passing glance at a few of the historic local stone structures, it stands much as it did on the last round, in varying degrees of decay.  

Drifting north through Dover only found Topeka lurking on the other side, full of impatient drivers.  Everyone seemed to be going in every direction in pursuit of various confined and localized celebrations planned for the evening.  

The homing beacon appeared near Kansas Speedway, glowing softly and colorful against a horizon full of storm clouds.  Chasing them across town, bringing a bit sun along with us, we landed safely amidst a partly cloudy evening. 

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Further Reading

B&B Metal Arts
BBMetalArts.com

Lindsborg, Kansas
City of Lindsborg

Hope History
City of Hope

White City
KansasTown.us

Dwight History
City of Dwight

Lake Wabaunsee

Wabaunsee County

Eskridge History
City of Eskridge

Lazy Cats and Barbed Wire

Crossing into Kansas from Colorado, by way of Lake Scott State Park

Rolling out of bed was difficult for a some.  It proved easier for them to find a spot perceived to be out of sight, and move on with their napping for the day.  The rest of the crew enjoyed a great breakfast, giving thanks for amenities, and appreciation of time spent in good company.

The route eastward out of Colorado rarely suggest any sort of new acquaintance.  Excepting vast open spaces in every direction, the desolate plains and shrublands offer little else of interest.  They eventually fade over to cropland, and interest level soars for few seconds, but quickly returns to previous states of stunned ambivalence.

Occasionally, folks putting in a hard day at work make an appearance. Harvest season seems to go on year round sometimes, and it is usually rather relaxing for the eyes, in spite of the great toil presented.  Massive stores piled high near every elevator suggest there will be no shortage of food any time soon.

Eads Roadside Park Monuments

Witnessing little or no humanity for what seems like hundreds of kilometres, a momentary distraction materializes relatively close to the border.  A memorial to those that served the country, and the women that endured to help build a nation, enable all passengers a spot for reflection, while waiting on others to tend to the business at hand.

The first exploration of the day a bit arrived just in time, but later than had been planed.  The mission to discover the location of the last purported, surviving, northern-most adobe in Kansas met with huge success.  There is not much of the structure remaining, but the rest of the park offers a few other interesting landmarks and amenities worth of consideration.

The road departing the Lake Scott proved even less interesting than that leading to the locale.  It stretched for countless kilometres, desolate, straight, and unforgiving, but a hallmark of most Kansas highways.  A few isolated villages, tending herds of windmills, presented moments of distraction.  The only thing to do out here is turn up the volume and keep moving.

40th Anniversary Crusade to Strengthen the Arms of Liberty Monument

Lady Liberty welcomed us to La Crosse in the early evening hours.  Everything appeared closed, necessitating exploration southward into Rush Center to obtain sustenance. The first place encountered appeared closed too.  If it were not for a message indicating the establishment was open, and an array of cars parked around, our party probably would not have bothered knocking.  Greg's Sports Pub & Grub was doing a booming business though, and satisfied needs perfectly.

Rush County Historical Museums, featuring the Post Rock Museum, Timken Depot, and Nekoma State Bank

The sights of La Crosse splashed across the windshield again soon after the satisfying meal of grease and hops.  It was much too late to learn all the fascinating things related to barbed wire though. The associated, well-preserved buildings from around the county rendered a rare opportunity to glimpse the past of the area without having to fight off the crowds.

Florence, Colorado to La Crosse, Kansas - July 2020

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Further Reading

Eads Roadside Park
Historical Marker Database

Historic Lake Scott State Park

Kansas Wildlife, Parks & Toursim

Replica of the Statue of Liberty

Historical Marker Database

Rush County Historical Museum

Rush County Historical Society