Saturday, July 23, 2016

Crossing Kansas out of Colorado


Eastbound out of Winter Park, through Denver, across Colorado and Kansas.


After one trip down to the village for breakfast, the path began winding down through Berthoud Pass.  The weekend had come, a festival was planned, and traffic headed into the little mountain town with increasing frequency.  Our plans coincided perfectly with everyone else.


A return to the harried civilization at the foot of the front range seemed not quite so pressing.  One last chance to enjoy peaceful solitude along the banks of a clear running stream stood more important as the trail turned east towards the chaos of the Interstate.  


Denver offered the much anticipated increasing array of chaos until finally arriving in the northern suburbs.  A brief visit with comrades from that town found a continuation of a unique style of painting. The recent move to the mountains seemed to have changer the scale of the work though.  Some pieces were as much 2 meters long.


Beyond the hustle of Denver, the new sentinels of the prairies dotted an otherwise blissfully empty landscape. It remained the Interstate though.  While an undesirable route, it had offered the opportunity to spend the previous day relaxing in Winter Park.


It also enabled a stop at a favorite location in Burlington, just before the jump into Kansas.  The Kit Carson Carousel is always a fun treat, if the season is cooperative.  One of about 150 remaining wooden carousels carved in the America, it is protected inside a wooden structure, but is not open year round.


Otherwise, this survivor of the last few centuries resides at the Kit Carson County Fairground and regularly spins visitors up to 19 kph. While the animals do not go up and down, this sixth of 74 carousels built by Philadelphia Toboggan Company between 1904 and 1933, is one of the fastest!


The plains across I-70 unfolded at lightening speed, offering few opportunities to really stop and soak in the wide-open landscape. Feed lots, freshly harvested fields and the sun raced by though the remainder of the afternoon. It eventually gave into little more than the lights of passing traffic and home.



This 3,800 kilometre journey comes to a close.  The adventure across the Front Range, into the Uinta Basin, and back again witnessed some of the most beautiful landscapes and offered up multiple new opportunities for future excursions.
. . .

Further Reading



Friday, July 22, 2016

Winter Park Chill


A pause in Winter Park to enjoy the summer solitude on and below the surrounding peaks.




Rising relatively early and gazing out upon one of the goals for the day, we quickly ventured down  to the village along the Village Cabriolet for a quick breakfast.  The offerings were just as scant as the previous night. Sustenance soon appeared, after a little exploration, and our expedition to Colorado Mines Peak began.


The journey started at the base of the peak at Berthoud Pass, zig-zagging to the summit in long, manageable switchbacks through the treeline.  A short conversation with others on the trail suggested a diversion towards Mount Flora and so it happened.  Reaching neither summit made no real difference.  The view from any angle proved astounding.


With a storm similar to the prior afternoon threatening, we passed back down into Winter Park to take a look around.   A late lunch in town enabled conversation about the remainder of day.  It never did rain and with the evening coming on, another destination offered a good way to ends things.


The best angle of attack appeared to be from the very southern end of Winter Park, where it cuts back into the forest along the river.  Walking through town did not seem all that appealing and led to the discovery that it connected with accommodations at The Vintage Hotel in just under 3 kilometres. Transportation remained parked at the point of beginning, requiring a return trip. It was of no consequence.  The early evening could not have brought more perfect conditions this high up in July.


Acquiring further sustenance for the evening, a a brief walkabout Winter Park Village enabled a view of the associated amusements.  One could imagine potential crowds milling about the different options amidst snow all around in the winter.  Milling about, talking and walking, time slipped away.  The moon rose over the mountain tops without warning.  Coupled with the effort to reach early elevations of 4,006 meters, it signaled the end of the evening.  A more perfect day of wandering ended quietly at 2,780 meters, give or take a couple.

. . .

Further Reading

Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests Pawnee National Grassland
US Department of Agriculture - Forest Service

Winter Park, Colorado

Winter Park Resort

Thursday, July 21, 2016

Dinosaur Storms


Colorado / Utah Road Trip Day 7: Vernal to Winter Park on the Victory Highway

An early start on the eastward trail crossing eastern Utah into Colorado, the Uinta Mountains faded the rear view mirror.  Clear skies and a cool morning made easy travel of the short distance to the first detour of the day.


A town just across the the state line, named for the extinct critters, hosted a visitor center and some intriguing wood carvings.  It was not much more than a convenience, prior to investigating other matters lacking as much.  It was a good thing too.


The Canyon Area of Dinosaur National Monument, up to Plug Hat Butte from the highway, offers few conveniences.  The views are astounding though, without going any father than there, only about 7 km from the entrance.  A few minor hiking trails show off fantastic views across Colorado into Utah, and beyond.  Our timetable ensured a return expedition necessary to surveying this area properly.


Clouds began choking the sky as the effort continued east on the Victory Highway and the mid-elevations.  They eventually dump their cargo in a torrential downpour that often reduced visibility to a single kilometre. Peaks surrounding Middle Park stood shrouded behind extremely low cloud cover.


Chasing our party back up into the higher elevations, the atmospheric stalker finally gave up on us at Winter Park. The climb had taken the fight out of it, but not before dumping buckets, one last time, on the quiet little ski town.


The sun began to break through in places, inspiring a bit of a walkabout the surrounding landscape.  An aerial tram provided passage to the village, nearly abandoned during this late July encounter. A few shops stood open and little more.  It mattered little.  The primary objective for the evening involved very little beyond settling in for time to explore tomorrow.



. . .

Further Reading

Dinosaur National Monument - National Park Service

Winter Park Resort

Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Dinosaur Fantasy


Colorado / Utah Road Trip Day 5: Around Vernal

Starting the day relatively early, we followed in the 250 year-old footsteps of Silvestre Vélez de Escalante. Along with his superior Francisco Domínguez, he sought a route to Monterey in California from Santa Fe, New Mexico.


This expedition only sought to uncover the secrets of ancient geology and ecosystems of part of that journey at Dinosaur National Monument.  Those secrets and many more were revealed right along side "those meddling kids."


The sites proved much greater than time had been allotted for, but dazzled and amazed our exploration of the site.  The adventure began at the Quarry Visitor Center, meandered along the Fossil Discovery Trail, the full length of the Tour of Tilted Rocks, across Green River, and out to Box Canyon.  Nestled there at the base of that canyon, the final home of Josie Bassett Morris.  She established her ranch in this fantastical world back in 1913, remaining until her death in 1964.  Hers is an inspirational story of the last of grit and determination.


Much of the same would be required to make way to an undiscovered destination from exploits of the prior day out.  Stopping at the Utah Welcome Center in Jensen, obtaining more accurate maps, a conversation with one of the attendants promoted a more popular heading.  She explained that a more direct route to Fantasy Canyon could be found by traversing Red Wash Road, going on to say that she had hear it was closed.  It was not currently marked as closed, so it must be open again.  Traveling along new asphalt, things looked promising, until the road quickly faded to gravel, then turned to nothing more than dirt and a herd of heavy equipment rebuilding said road.


Ultimately, perseverance paid off on this return to the center of the Uinta Basin though.  The "Road Closed" sign was discovered at the intersection of 45 Highway.  The asphalt improved travel time to the next encounter with dirt.  Shortly thereafter, Fantasy Canyon appeared as nothing more than a solitary parking sign and matching trail marker.  An incredible array of strange and wonderful, naturally weathered, sandstone emerges from clay beds here, taking on various intriguing forms.


Rain looked to roll in on the afternoon.  Sticking to the blacktop of 45 highway, the drive back to Vernal proved relatively uneventful, unless you count being stuck out on the road at a dead stop for half an hour.  Road repairs were underway along this route too, though not quite as serious as those along Red Wash Road.  The delay was mostly harmless and enabled capturing a few picturesque moments and good conversation with the individual moderating traffic on this relatively empty stretch of highway.  Eventually, a few more vehicles came along and out of nowhere it stacked up suddenly, and then we were all on our way again.


Famished upon our return to Vernal, we met briefly with their resident pet pink dinosaur, then immediately made progress towards The Quarry Steakhouse & Brew Pub.  It commanded an excellent position to review the events of the day, serving food and refreshment to sate the appetite.


Still, quite a bit remained in the day, so our party went on walkabout through the immediate vicinity to see all the town had to offer.  Dinosaurs, helicopters, the Uintah Public Library and plenty of  green space welcomed our adventuring, topping off what had been a fantastic day of exploration.



. . .

Further Reading

Britannica.com

US National Park Service

Dinosaur National Monument - National Park Service

US Department of Interior - Bureau of Land Management

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Across the Roan into the Uinta

CO-139 Northbound towards Rangely, CO

Colorado / Utah Road Trip Day 4: Montrose to Vernal

The planned journey for the day was only a bit longer than the previous two days, but still a relatively short hop, compared with the test of endurance in crossing Kansas that first day. The approximately 320 km trip from Montrose, Colorado to Vernal, Utah should have only taken about 4 hours.

A couple of diversions, one somewhat planned and the other even less so, doubled that time as we wandered through a National Monument, a National Historic District, and discovered the odd beauty of the Uinta Basin.

US-50 Westbound near Olathe, CO

Leaving Montrose relatively early, under gradually gathering cloud cover, we made good time west across the Grand Valley. The scenery was mostly unremarkable and again, very Kansas-like, so much so that for one brief moment my heart skipped a beat upon seeing an exist sign for Olathe.
If it were not for the town of Delta, and Grand Mesa consuming most of the background scenery, I might have needed to stop and review the situation more closely.



The Uncompahgre Plateau became much more visible as we approached Grand Junction, along with some rather ominous clouds. They seemed somewhat timid though, retreating as quickly as they had gathered, presumably in search of reinforcements. Indeed, other much darker accomplices lurked just on the edge of the horizon.

Weather is odd in this part of the country. One can sometimes quickly find themselves in a deluge, when it was a perfectly clear day only moments before. Certain that our mission into Colorado National Monument would come to a wet and muddy ending before it even started, we kept a wary eye skyward, in the hopes of having at least a few moments warning.


The sun faded in an out, causing the plateau to glow in brilliant array of sandy earth colors, and our excitement, as much. Maintaining course, we quietly passed through the southern edge of Grand Junction without incident. It was much like any other suburb on a Tuesday morning, excepting the odd biker and his bundle of daises.

Traffic thinned out to nothing as we approached the gate to the monument. Several folks were coming out of the area, causing it to seem as though we were going in through the Out door. Indeed, we were a little concerned with being turned away to enter from the north, as nobody else seemed to be traveling in same direction.


The Ranger waved us through though, and we quickly realized we had accidentally on purpose chosen the best route. Aside from the fact that everyone is traveling the other direction, all of the pull-offs are on the right side of the road, eliminating the need to cross traffic, offering a quick escape from the same. I suppose that if it is important to stop at the Visitor Center before all else, then coming in from the north is more reasonable.

Another good reason to in from the north may relate generally to visibility and safety while driving. It is nearly impossible to see much from a vehicle, coming in from the south. A perpetual fear of driving over the edge of a cliff kept us well focused on the task of driving, and the asphalt ahead of us, leaving no opportunity for viewing while in motion.

We paused briefly at nearly every stop along the way, getting out of the vehicle and wandering the cliff edges, marveling at the beauty of the canyons and the Grand Valley below. The situation was not much safer than driving though. While there are safety rails, they are not along the entire edge. It is imperative to keep wits about you at all times, lest you find the ground absent from beneath your feet.


 My traveling companion could not be bothered with such details. She continuously danced perilously close to the edge, without a thought towards the relative distance between her and the floor of the canyon. On numerous occasions, I was certain she was doomed. All that it would take is one misstep.

I warned her repeatedly that, should she tumble to the bottom, I would not be making the trip down to drag her broken body out of the canyon. Plenty of wildlife lurked in the shadows, eager and willing to take on that task and divide it among them. I saw no reason to participate.

She only mocked my concern, as she continued to hop, skip, and jump her way across the treacherous territory. Somehow, miraculously she remained situated and able to continue the adventure.


The clouds were beginning to boil over again as we reached the Visitor Center. The weather had been perfect up to that time, but rain was definitely imminent. We could see clouds quickly racing towards our position high on the plateau. It would be rainy day in Grand Junction, but our path north and west looked clear.

Almost immediately, the rain started in, as we made our way down into the valley. It did not last long, and was not a particularly heavy downpour, but there must have been some sort of cause for concern. A lone Bighorn Sheep charged across the road about that time, racing for high ground, seemingly certain of a recurrence of the flood that made Noah famous.


The rain left as quickly as it had come though, leaving massive black clouds perched above the plateau, threatening to wash everything into the valley below. It advanced no further, and our course appeared clear for hundreds of miles, so we made our escape before the clouds could give chase.

It should be noted that one should never attempt to drive, carry on a phone conversation, and locate food, while traveling through back-to-back roundabouts. I can tell you from experience that you will accomplish very little beyond traveling in endless circles.


We must have passed back and forth over I-70 at least three times before concluding that a sign in the distance promising “Munchies” would have to suffice. It no longer mattered what we would eat, only that a clear and present sign offered hope in our escaping the incessant circular motion.

After a quick stop for sustenance at this semi-carnival like place, complete children running amuck, we were on our way. We only participated in the food portion. They did have a pretty good burger; although I am not sure I would necessarily go so far as to say it is the “World’s Best.”

Making our way north of Grand Junction, the stretch of roadway, as part of the Dinosaur Diamond Scenic and Historic Byway, turned again to another page from the book of Kansas. The landscape, littered with farms, and the occasional over-priced subdivision, unnecessarily redundant.

The Roan Plateau from CO-139 Northbound just outside of Grand Junction

Just about the time we started to get bored with that scenery, it abruptly changed and we were rising up into the escarpment of the Roan Plateau. Indeed, and just about the time we started to become bored with that, we began winding our way through Sayles Canyon, with minor peaks rising in all directions.

Looking south from Douglass Pass on CO-139

Arriving at Douglass Pass, we were up on top of the world again, in full view of the valley we had come through to the south, and our intended path to the north. The pass is definitely a divide of sorts, perhaps for this particular geological feature only.

We started winding our way back down northward into that valley, and the scenery seemingly flipped from sub-Alpine to near desert conditions. With the scenery becoming dull to my traveling companion, she decided it was time to pass out in the passenger seat.

I found the transition and the new flat and straight deserted canyon road blissful in its abandon. The marks of society could not be found anywhere beyond the road. Semi-arid canyonlands offered the eye a multitude of distractions to keep the hum of the tires out of your head.


Breaking away into a long stretch of flat and narrow, the road introduced a sign of civilization. Although abandoned, the art of human origin all the same. We had stumbled into Canyon Pintado National Historic District, a construct and protectorate of the US Bureau of Land Management.
It was not on the map, had not presented itself through our meager research prior to the trip, and there had been no signs to indicate as much. The reasons would become more apparent with later research. It offered facilities though, and an array of signage explaining itself, so I pulled in for closer examination.


It seems the area was once home to an abundance of some of the oldest and best examples pictographs. Most are gone now, obliterated from the landscape by jealous artists, and careless tourists. It was beautifully silent there now, but not piece of art beyond the signage.

Looking North across Canyon Pintado National Historic District

Exiting our vehicle for a stretch and a few minutes of reading, we took advantage of the available facilities and were on our way in no time. The pit stop had been mildly amusing, in its information, and capacity to jolt my passenger from her nap time. A couple of other travelers had come to spoil the solitude though, so we left while inner peace remained.

Arriving in Rangely around 2 pm, we only needed another hour or so to make it to Vernal, so decided to go in search of an odd little place we read about online called Fantasy Canyon. We should probably have gone on to Vernal. One would think that find something in the middle of nothing is a relatively easy task, but nothing is ever easy to find in the desert.

We had GPS and Google seemed to know the way, so we were not overly concerned, and detoured across the floor of the Uinta Basin floor and straight into Utah without knowing that we had even crossed the state line. That should have been our first warning. The only indication towards that end, we were on a flat, wide, empty desert basin.

Turning this way and that, we eventually left the County roads and began crossing mostly undeveloped gravel truck routes with no signage whatsoever. We were in the middle of nothing, and there was more surrounding nothing.

Looking across the Uinta Basin Floor in eastern Utah, near Bonanza

We encountered the Bonanza Power Plant, and marked it in our mind for future reference, should things got too far out of hand. As a landmark visible for miles, it is likely the only life for hundreds of miles. Eventually, more signs of life became apparent. I think the area of Fantasy Canyon is some sort of oil or gas field, as the scenery soon became littered with pumping stations.

032505 in Eastern Utah, near Bonanza

Eventually we received guidance to turn down what it only called 032505. The naming convention seemed rather odd, but not entirely out of place in this area of desolation. A small tin shack sat at the intersection of these two paths, with a pickup parked outside. We were not entirely alone, which offered some relief.

Google finally told us to stop and park after passing a short half-mile down this path. Looking out the window, the scenery looked somewhat similar to the photos online, but then not quite as interesting. We got out and looked about, poking around some of the cracks and crevices. Most of the statuary seemed still under construction, and it was certainly of the same formation, but was not the place.


The day had been clear and perfect, up until this time, but the clouds we had lost in Grand Junction, suddenly found us again. They were bearing down on our position quickly, determined again to soak us through. The constitution of the area appeared as though it turned to a sloppy mud hole with the right amount of rain, so we decided to abandon the effort entirely.

Pronghorn Antelope crossing the road near Fantasy Canyon, UT

As we were leaving, a local family of Pronghorn Antelope dropped by for a friendly visit. However, they quickly realized we were not from around there, turned their noses, and left without a word. The pick-up at the shack on the corner left too, and we were alone again with our fearless navigator, Google.

It took quite a bit less time to get back to the main road (UT-45), thankfully. Cloudbursts began dumping rain in random locations all around us in an effort to destroy evidence of our visit and block any attempt to return.

In collusion with the clouds, the State setup a roadblock on our route, under the guise of a repaving crew. Although, a road crew repaving a road that seemingly has no need for repaving is not very good cover; on the other hand, that is a generally typical arrangement.

Split Mountain
After waiting in a mile of traffic for about twenty minutes, we finally escaped. Just over the next hill Split Mountain appeared on the horizon. We were nearing the end of another day.

We arrived in Vernal without further incident, undoubtedly in a world that coveted the dinosaur. A massive pink version of the same welcomed us, and everything had some sort of Jurassic tint to it. It was the least of our concerns though. Hunger was beginning to knock on the door again.

Quickly locating the little roadside motel we had booked for this occasion, we were pleasantly surprised it turned out to the best, thus far. A mini-suite of sorts, it not only had a bed, but also a comfortable leather sofa, and a television larger than any other we had seen in any other hotel.



Our mind was not on any of these items though. We put in a lot of effort throughout day, and hunger was escalating in intensity. Fortunately, we had passed the local Vernal Brewing Company that hosted dining too. Only a block away we were there in no time, relaxing with a cold local brew and some tasty food.


. . .


This is the fourth part of an 8 day journey into Colorado, across the Continental Divide, into Utah, and back again. The previous story discussed travel sights related to the the third day in “The Black Canyon and a Bay of Chickens.”

In the next episode, we spend most of the day around Vernal, and return to the center of the Uinta basin again in search of Fantasy Canyon; this time, with a greater degree of success. It is amazing what you can accomplish off-road.

. . .

Further Reading

Touring through Colorado National Monument

Monday, July 18, 2016

The Black Canyon and a Bay of Chickens

Juniper at Dragon Point, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Colorado / Utah Road Trip Day 3: Gunnison to Montrose

With only about 100 kilometers to cover, there was no particular rush to hit the road. We had an appointment to set sail at 1 pm. Nothing planned before, and only generalized plans for the time after that cruise downstream on the Gunnison River for a look around.

We hit the road out of Gunnison rather early anyway, to ensure we had plenty of time for boarding. The skies were blue, with only a trace of the high cirrus drifting aimlessly about, and comfortable temperatures in the middle or upper 20º C.

Entering Curecanti National Recreation Area on US-50

Following along Tomichi Creek, flat farmland quickly gave way to the foothills of the West Elk Mountains bordering Curecanti National Recreation Area. They sneak up on you too, attempting to hide their girth between breaks in the tree line. Mostly successful, you are certain that you are back in Kansas, until the trees dissipate and the landscape races up out of nowhere.

Wilson’s Landing, Curecanti National Recreation Area

We paused only for a moment at Wilson’s Landing to snap a couple of photos before moving on to the Elk Creek Visitor Center. This was an essential stop, as we were not entirely certain of where we were going to catch this boat.

Google Maps had the trail marked, but showed the location of the boat tour a 100 km southwest of the trail. Noting that spot to be nowhere near a water source, we were relatively confident of the accuracy of the trail.

Park Rangers at the Visitor Center confirmed our suspicions and sent us on our way with patches, maps, water, and a reminder to be prompt or miss the boat. It was still early though. We only had another 20 km to go, and another couple of hours before the boat left, so we decided to pause a few places along the way to capture a few photos.

Elk Creek Campground from the Elk Creek Visitor Center, Curecanti National Recreation Area

Around the first corner, the Bay of Chickens appeared. We had never witnessed such a thing, so immediately stopped to have a look at this obvious unnatural wonder. It turned out to be a lie. There were no chickens. We hunted all over the turnout, but could not find a single chicken.

Dillon Pinnacles appeared around another bend and needing some rest, and finding rooms at this location for that particular exercise, we took advantage of the situation. While my comrade checked on availability, and secured a room of her liking, I noted a trail wandering off around the corner and some folks making their way back along the same.

Dillon Pinnacles Trail, Curecanti National Recreation Area

After inquiring about their travels, they indicated Dillon Pinnacles as a remarkable sight just around the curve of the hill adjacent to us, and an easy 15-minute hike. They must have been running the entire way though. As we rounded the bend, the pinnacles were a fantastic sight, but the hike out there looked to be a few kilometers, and we simply did not have the time.

Signage along Dillon Pinnacles Trail, Curecanti National Recreation Area

We abandoned the effort, choosing to simply admire the pinnacles from afar, pondering the time “When Reptiles Ruled.” The kilometer hike to this sign had been effortless, and somewhat so on the return, though the temperature seemed to be stealthily increasing.

Cutting across Blue Mesa Reservoir, we quickly discovered there had been no need to make the hike. The mesa of Dillon Pinnacles appeared in full view across the lake. Clouds were quickly trying to cover up the evidence, but they were not quick enough, and I finally captured a couple of shots; of course, they quickly left, leaving the mesa in full sunlight the moment we left.

Dillon Pinnacles, Curecanti National Recreation Area

We hit a minor snag at this point, thanks to Google Maps. Using their navigation, it indicated we needed to turn on to CO-92 for a short distance. It seemed somewhat peculiar that there had been no sign, when the Park Ranger had promised as much. We forged ahead anyway, confident Google knew best.

While we did get our first glimpse of the real Black Canyon from the top of the dam at Blue Mesa Reservoir, we were wholly unprepared for the journey that Google had in mind.

Parking in the gravel parking lot Google indicated to, I took another quick look at Google Maps as I exited the vehicle. I was shocked! Google intended for us to hike down Cottonwood Gulch and swim across the river in order to meet our ship. It was hot, and a swim might have been refreshing, but we declined the opportunity, preferring a less exhaustive path.


Returning to US-50 and pressing on, much to our relief, the sign we sought appeared just a short kilometer later. Google continued to insist that we needed to turn around. We turned Google off and followed the gravel road to a sign that clearly indicated we were in the correct location.

It was still hot out, but we knew that going down into that sunless chasm it was going to get a little chilly, so we prepared for as much. We also took on a couple of liters of water with us just in case things were not as they seemed. It appeared that would be the trend for day, and we were already drowning our intestines in the dry air of the high plateau. There was no sense in changing that pattern. We had a ship to board.

The hike along Pine Creek Trail to the Morrow Point Boat Tour is not that difficult. A stairway leads 55 meters down along a small cascade to the very bottom of the canyon and the Gunnison River. The only difficult part of the hike is the return trip up all of those stairs, which we duly noted on the way down.

Pine Creek Trail and Gunnison River, Curecanti National Recreation Area

Quite literally, a walk in the park, the journey along the trail is really quite pleasant, with the rushing sound of the Gunnison River echoing off the steep canyon walls all around. It is like being inside of a waterfall without having to get wet.

The trail extends another half km beyond the launch site, and I did wander down that direction to inspect the situation. There was not much more, but I was successful in wasting enough time so that on my return we were ready to set sail.

Morrow Point Tour Boat, Curecanti National Recreation Area



After ensuring women and children were also properly secured in appropriate vestments for the occasion, our narrator briefed the twenty or thirty of us on our upcoming journey. He fired the starting shot without much more delay, and the crowd raced the gangplank for the very seat they had been fixated on from the port.

We proceeded effortlessly downstream taking in fantastic views of this canyon from the perfect vantage point, the very middle of the river. We passed astounding formations, with folds, fractures, and intrusions running in a multitude of directions up craggy walls.

Curecanti Needle on the Gunnison River, Curecanti National Recreation Area

Chipeta Falls appeared in short order, cascading beautifully over the edge, dumping Corral Creek hundreds of meters into the river below. Our narrator provided a detailed explanation of this process and they had foiled any attempt of the creek to deposit rocks and sediment on the original valley floor by simply damming up the river. It is quite an ingenious idea actually.

Chipeta Falls, Curecanti National Recreation Area

The Ranger also did a fantastic job of detailing the geology of the year in broad strokes, mixing in enough trivia to ensure nobody got too bored. He was an animated and friendly sort, one of the fortunate few that had volunteered his way into Park Service years ago, and enjoyed a relatively comfortable life simply keeping folks educated and informed. He assured us that those days are gone, but there were still plenty of volunteer opportunities all over the country.

Continuing past the Curecanti Needle, a giant ragged tooth jutting up from the canyon floor next to Blue Creek, we learned of its significance in the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad. After hearing the tale, and the role of this scenic ride through the great canyon, it did seem to be the most appropriate image for their logo.

Denver & Rio Grande RR logo and Curecanti Needle, Curecanti National Recreation Area

We turned our attention briefly to the other side of the canyon to wave at hikers examining their adventure for the day from the heights of Pioneer Point. Several had started early enough to have already reached the bottom, and mocked their adversaries lingering at the top.

Without much fanfare, Kokanee Bay arrived and we turned about and headed back upstream to our point of departure. It seemed to take quite a bit less time, thankfully. The water I had taken on, coupled with the sound of rushing water all around was beginning to necessitate a port of call.

The clouds finally refined their organizational skills, and threatened to unload on us. It rained lightly and briefly, just enough to dampen everything, but not enough to break out the life vests. After expressing our thanks and gratitude to our guide for a scenic and safe journey, we quickly and easily traversed the trail back to our waiting vehicle. Part one of the adventure for the day had concluded with relatively few incidents.

US Geological Survey Bench Mark at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

We spent the second half of our day wandering the asphalt trail of another part of his massive geologic feature known as the Gunnison Uplift, within Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. Having heard tales of this canyon from friends over the last couple of years, I was anxious to get a good look at it for myself.

Not knowing exactly how long we might get lost in that sector, we decided to bounce on down to Montrose and check-in at the hotel. We stuck with a franchise on this particular night, as almost all of the mom-n-pop shops had displayed terrible reviews when he had researched them earlier.It must be endemic to the town though, as the Baymont had its share of issues as well.


We dropped our bags in the room and vacated quickly, finding our up to Black Canyon without incident. It was somewhat poorly marked from US-50, but since there is not a lot out there, it is hard to miss; that is, unless you are asleep at the wheel.

The excursion early in the day simply does not do the canyon justice. It was indeed a fabulous journey through the lower canyon, but nothing compared to peeking over edge within the national park area. The sheer walls and depths of the canyon are amazing, and Precambrian exposures immediately available to the naked eye; a geologists dream come true.

After a brief stop at the Visitor Center, and a short look over the edge of Gunnison Point just behind it, we continued on to the various pit stops along the way. It was amazing that all of them offered the opportunity to get right out on the edge of things and test your balancing skills.

Looking straight down at Painted Wall View, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I am well acquainted with my own expertise in that area, but my travel companion is always concerned her skills may be waning, so enjoys every chance to practice the tightrope walk. This occasion was no different, but I reminded her numerous times that should she make a fatal mistake, I would not be crawling down to drag her out of one of the multitude of poison ivy encrusted crevices.

We did not have a lot of time anyway, as it was late in the day. There were about 10 overlooks to visit, all with relatively short trails, each with as fantastic a view as the previous. We spent our time on the short strolls; Pulpit Rock, Cross Fissures, Chasm View, Dragon Point, Sunset View and finally High Point.

Mountain Lion signage at High Point, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I was kind of hoping to be able to make it down to Warner Point, but by the time we reached the trailhead at High Point, much of the day was gone. We pondered the thought, as we mused over a warning about Mountain Lions.

The sign explained in detail how to deal with such a situation, but it seemed peculiar to place such a warning, at the end of a series of trails where one might have already encountered such a beast. There were none immediately present though.

It seemed as if nothing were moving at that end of the park; indeed, very few people were about. We had seen no wild life among the Pioneers and Dwarf Forest of the crags. The views were fantastic though, particularly at this station. The Gunnison River wound its way through numerous cascades below in both directions.

West Elk Mountain Range with Painted Wall in the foreground, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

The Painted Wall seemed a bit more colorful from here than at the point specifically planned for its viewing, and one could gaze in wonder across the uplift towards the even higher peaks of the West Elk Mountains.

It was magnificent, and a hunger began to claw at our guts, a special kind of yearning that only mountain hiking and exploring canyons can deliver. There is just something special about these kind of adventures that leave a person wanting more.

West Elk Mountains from High Point, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

However, we quickly realized it was not the paradise we stood in causing this feeling; rather, our neglect in acquiring sustenance. Warner Point was officially out of the question, and we headed back down the asphalt trail of the Black Canyon, making one last stop at Tomichi Point.

Clouds were looming, darkening the skies, and threatening to drown us as we exited the park. A few cattle made every effort to block our exit. They were just not fast enough and we managed to escape just in time, leaving them bellowing in protest from the middle of the road. Other drivers were not so lucky.



A minor cloudburst crossed our path as we made the descent back down to US-50, but it proved short-lived and insignificant overall. We passed quickly into Montrose without further incident, dropped in on Ted Nelson’s Steakhouse for an excellent meal, and then pretty much passed out from all of the sailing, running, jumping, crawling, hiking, climbing of the day.

Rain sweeping through the Cedar Creek Valley near Montrose, Colorado

This is the third part of an 8 day journey into Colorado, across the Continental Divide, into Utah, and back again. The previous story discussed the arrangements regarding the second day, “Crossing the Divide.”

In the next episode, we make cross the desert into Vernal by way of Grand Junction. We only got a little lost.



. . .

Further Reading

A closer look at Curecanti National Recreation Area

Resources and Recreation in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National





Popular Variations