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| Juniper at Dragon Point, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park |
Colorado / Utah Road Trip Day 3: Gunnison to Montrose
With only about 100 kilometers to cover, there was no particular rush to hit the road. We had an appointment to set sail at 1 pm. Nothing planned before, and only generalized plans for the time after that cruise downstream on the Gunnison River for a look around.
We hit the road out of Gunnison rather early anyway, to ensure we had plenty of time for boarding. The skies were blue, with only a trace of the high cirrus drifting aimlessly about, and comfortable temperatures in the middle or upper 20ยบ C.
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| Entering Curecanti National Recreation Area on US-50 |
Following along Tomichi Creek, flat farmland quickly gave way to the foothills of the West Elk Mountains bordering Curecanti National Recreation Area. They sneak up on you too, attempting to hide their girth between breaks in the tree line. Mostly successful, you are certain that you are back in Kansas, until the trees dissipate and the landscape races up out of nowhere.
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| Wilson’s Landing, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
We paused only for a moment at Wilson’s Landing to snap a couple of photos before moving on to the Elk Creek Visitor Center. This was an essential stop, as we were not entirely certain of where we were going to catch this boat.
Google Maps had the trail marked, but showed the location of the boat tour a 100 km southwest of the trail. Noting that spot to be nowhere near a water source, we were relatively confident of the accuracy of the trail.
Park Rangers at the Visitor Center confirmed our suspicions and sent us on our way with patches, maps, water, and a reminder to be prompt or miss the boat. It was still early though. We only had another 20 km to go, and another couple of hours before the boat left, so we decided to pause a few places along the way to capture a few photos.
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| Elk Creek Campground from the Elk Creek Visitor Center, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
Around the first corner, the Bay of Chickens appeared. We had never witnessed such a thing, so immediately stopped to have a look at this obvious unnatural wonder. It turned out to be a lie. There were no chickens. We hunted all over the turnout, but could not find a single chicken.
Dillon Pinnacles appeared around another bend and needing some rest, and finding rooms at this location for that particular exercise, we took advantage of the situation. While my comrade checked on availability, and secured a room of her liking, I noted a trail wandering off around the corner and some folks making their way back along the same.
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| Dillon Pinnacles Trail, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
After inquiring about their travels, they indicated Dillon Pinnacles as a remarkable sight just around the curve of the hill adjacent to us, and an easy 15-minute hike. They must have been running the entire way though. As we rounded the bend, the pinnacles were a fantastic sight, but the hike out there looked to be a few kilometers, and we simply did not have the time.
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| Signage along Dillon Pinnacles Trail, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
We abandoned the effort, choosing to simply admire the pinnacles from afar, pondering the time “When Reptiles Ruled.” The kilometer hike to this sign had been effortless, and somewhat so on the return, though the temperature seemed to be stealthily increasing.
Cutting across Blue Mesa Reservoir, we quickly discovered there had been no need to make the hike. The mesa of Dillon Pinnacles appeared in full view across the lake. Clouds were quickly trying to cover up the evidence, but they were not quick enough, and I finally captured a couple of shots; of course, they quickly left, leaving the mesa in full sunlight the moment we left.
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| Dillon Pinnacles, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
We hit a minor snag at this point, thanks to Google Maps. Using their navigation, it indicated we needed to turn on to CO-92 for a short distance. It seemed somewhat peculiar that there had been no sign, when the Park Ranger had promised as much. We forged ahead anyway, confident Google knew best.
While we did get our first glimpse of the real Black Canyon from the top of the dam at Blue Mesa Reservoir, we were wholly unprepared for the journey that Google had in mind.
Parking in the gravel parking lot Google indicated to, I took another quick look at Google Maps as I exited the vehicle. I was shocked! Google intended for us to hike down Cottonwood Gulch and swim across the river in order to meet our ship. It was hot, and a swim might have been refreshing, but we declined the opportunity, preferring a less exhaustive path.
Returning to US-50 and pressing on, much to our relief, the sign we sought appeared just a short kilometer later. Google continued to insist that we needed to turn around. We turned Google off and followed the gravel road to a sign that clearly indicated we were in the correct location.
It was still hot out, but we knew that going down into that sunless chasm it was going to get a little chilly, so we prepared for as much. We also took on a couple of liters of water with us just in case things were not as they seemed. It appeared that would be the trend for day, and we were already drowning our intestines in the dry air of the high plateau. There was no sense in changing that pattern. We had a ship to board.
The hike along Pine Creek Trail to the Morrow Point Boat Tour is not that difficult. A stairway leads 55 meters down along a small cascade to the very bottom of the canyon and the Gunnison River. The only difficult part of the hike is the return trip up all of those stairs, which we duly noted on the way down.
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| Pine Creek Trail and Gunnison River, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
Quite literally, a walk in the park, the journey along the trail is really quite pleasant, with the rushing sound of the Gunnison River echoing off the steep canyon walls all around. It is like being inside of a waterfall without having to get wet.
The trail extends another half km beyond the launch site, and I did wander down that direction to inspect the situation. There was not much more, but I was successful in wasting enough time so that on my return we were ready to set sail.
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| Morrow Point Tour Boat, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
After ensuring women and children were also properly secured in appropriate vestments for the occasion, our narrator briefed the twenty or thirty of us on our upcoming journey. He fired the starting shot without much more delay, and the crowd raced the gangplank for the very seat they had been fixated on from the port.
We proceeded effortlessly downstream taking in fantastic views of this canyon from the perfect vantage point, the very middle of the river. We passed astounding formations, with folds, fractures, and intrusions running in a multitude of directions up craggy walls.
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| Curecanti Needle on the Gunnison River, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
Chipeta Falls appeared in short order, cascading beautifully over the edge, dumping Corral Creek hundreds of meters into the river below. Our narrator provided a detailed explanation of this process and they had foiled any attempt of the creek to deposit rocks and sediment on the original valley floor by simply damming up the river. It is quite an ingenious idea actually.
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| Chipeta Falls, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
The Ranger also did a fantastic job of detailing the geology of the year in broad strokes, mixing in enough trivia to ensure nobody got too bored. He was an animated and friendly sort, one of the fortunate few that had volunteered his way into Park Service years ago, and enjoyed a relatively comfortable life simply keeping folks educated and informed. He assured us that those days are gone, but there were still plenty of volunteer opportunities all over the country.
Continuing past the Curecanti Needle, a giant ragged tooth jutting up from the canyon floor next to Blue Creek, we learned of its significance in the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad. After hearing the tale, and the role of this scenic ride through the great canyon, it did seem to be the most appropriate image for their logo.
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| Denver & Rio Grande RR logo and Curecanti Needle, Curecanti National Recreation Area |
We turned our attention briefly to the other side of the canyon to wave at hikers examining their adventure for the day from the heights of Pioneer Point. Several had started early enough to have already reached the bottom, and mocked their adversaries lingering at the top.
Without much fanfare, Kokanee Bay arrived and we turned about and headed back upstream to our point of departure. It seemed to take quite a bit less time, thankfully. The water I had taken on, coupled with the sound of rushing water all around was beginning to necessitate a port of call.
The clouds finally refined their organizational skills, and threatened to unload on us. It rained lightly and briefly, just enough to dampen everything, but not enough to break out the life vests. After expressing our thanks and gratitude to our guide for a scenic and safe journey, we quickly and easily traversed the trail back to our waiting vehicle. Part one of the adventure for the day had concluded with relatively few incidents.
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| US Geological Survey Bench Mark at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park |
We spent the second half of our day wandering the asphalt trail of another part of his massive geologic feature known as the Gunnison Uplift, within Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. Having heard tales of this canyon from friends over the last couple of years, I was anxious to get a good look at it for myself.
Not knowing exactly how long we might get lost in that sector, we decided to bounce on down to Montrose and check-in at the hotel. We stuck with a franchise on this particular night, as almost all of the mom-n-pop shops had displayed terrible reviews when he had researched them earlier.It must be endemic to the town though, as the Baymont had its share of issues as well.
We dropped our bags in the room and vacated quickly, finding our up to Black Canyon without incident. It was somewhat poorly marked from US-50, but since there is not a lot out there, it is hard to miss; that is, unless you are asleep at the wheel.
The excursion early in the day simply does not do the canyon justice. It was indeed a fabulous journey through the lower canyon, but nothing compared to peeking over edge within the national park area. The sheer walls and depths of the canyon are amazing, and Precambrian exposures immediately available to the naked eye; a geologists dream come true.
After a brief stop at the Visitor Center, and a short look over the edge of Gunnison Point just behind it, we continued on to the various pit stops along the way. It was amazing that all of them offered the opportunity to get right out on the edge of things and test your balancing skills.
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| Looking straight down at Painted Wall View, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park |
I am well acquainted with my own expertise in that area, but my travel companion is always concerned her skills may be waning, so enjoys every chance to practice the tightrope walk. This occasion was no different, but I reminded her numerous times that should she make a fatal mistake, I would not be crawling down to drag her out of one of the multitude of poison ivy encrusted crevices.
We did not have a lot of time anyway, as it was late in the day. There were about 10 overlooks to visit, all with relatively short trails, each with as fantastic a view as the previous. We spent our time on the short strolls; Pulpit Rock, Cross Fissures, Chasm View, Dragon Point, Sunset View and finally High Point.
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| Mountain Lion signage at High Point, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park |
I was kind of hoping to be able to make it down to Warner Point, but by the time we reached the trailhead at High Point, much of the day was gone. We pondered the thought, as we mused over a warning about Mountain Lions.
The sign explained in detail how to deal with such a situation, but it seemed peculiar to place such a warning, at the end of a series of trails where one might have already encountered such a beast. There were none immediately present though.
It seemed as if nothing were moving at that end of the park; indeed, very few people were about. We had seen no wild life among the Pioneers and Dwarf Forest of the crags. The views were fantastic though, particularly at this station. The Gunnison River wound its way through numerous cascades below in both directions.
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| West Elk Mountain Range with Painted Wall in the foreground, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park |
The Painted Wall seemed a bit more colorful from here than at the point specifically planned for its viewing, and one could gaze in wonder across the uplift towards the even higher peaks of the West Elk Mountains.
It was magnificent, and a hunger began to claw at our guts, a special kind of yearning that only mountain hiking and exploring canyons can deliver. There is just something special about these kind of adventures that leave a person wanting more.
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| West Elk Mountains from High Point, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park |
However, we quickly realized it was not the paradise we stood in causing this feeling; rather, our neglect in acquiring sustenance. Warner Point was officially out of the question, and we headed back down the asphalt trail of the Black Canyon, making one last stop at Tomichi Point.
Clouds were looming, darkening the skies, and threatening to drown us as we exited the park. A few cattle made every effort to block our exit. They were just not fast enough and we managed to escape just in time, leaving them bellowing in protest from the middle of the road. Other drivers were not so lucky.
A minor cloudburst crossed our path as we made the descent back down to US-50, but it proved short-lived and insignificant overall. We passed quickly into Montrose without further incident, dropped in on Ted Nelson’s Steakhouse for an excellent meal, and then pretty much passed out from all of the sailing, running, jumping, crawling, hiking, climbing of the day.
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| Rain sweeping through the Cedar Creek Valley near Montrose, Colorado |
This is the third part of an 8 day journey into Colorado, across the Continental Divide, into Utah, and back again. The previous story discussed the arrangements regarding the second day, “Crossing the Divide.”
In the next episode, we make cross the desert into Vernal by way of Grand Junction. We only got a little lost.
. . .
Further Reading
A closer look at Curecanti National Recreation Area
Resources and Recreation in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National
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