Wandering the Flint Hills near Council Grove the day after Christmas
A beautiful clear Boxing Day seemed as good a reason as any to escape the confines of the city and enjoy some fresh air and slightly warmer weather in the Flint Hills of Kansas. The temperature is rarely 15°C in this part of the country at this time of year. More often than not, it is a frigid -15°C.
It took little time arrive in the shadow of the 1873 Chase County Courthouse. The distinctive red roof of this 35 meter tall walnut and limestone structure can be observed from most any vantage point in the county. The lawn of said court is usually best, but any attempt at photographing this oldest operating courthouse in the state are frustrated any time of year. It is as if by design that the front of the building is forever in shadow.
Available light spread out in abundance along the falls just down the street. While not exactly naturally occurring, they qualify well-enough for a pause. A well-maintained century-old walking bridge, offers a front row seat to the flow, as well as the mid-stream cairn construction efforts downstream.
Heading north toward the extension of the Santa Fe Trail at Council Grove, a modern gravel access road to the Lower Fox Creek Schoolhouse encouraged a brief interlude. The new route saves an arduous 1 kilometre hike through the brush from Tallgrass Prairie Visitor Center.
A lack of sights in this part of the world often leads down alternative paths. This occasion was no different. Tiring of the vacant landscape only 6 km from Council Grove encouraged a detour along a somewhat parallel roadway. The scenery did not change dramatically, but did offer up a passing glimpse of a crumbling historic stone farmstead.
Arriving in town from a different angle placed all of the signs for the Hermit's Cave completely out of sight. The only indication of location on our records displayed a point on the map placed in the middle of a bluff line. A random street running between houses on the lower side suggested access. Forging ahead through the tangled undergrowth, the cave and an easier access point soon appeared. The remainder of the party had circled around the block to the top of the bluff and discovered the same.
Their lack of adventure enabled them to scout the McKinley Monument just a half of a block down the street. Standing in memorial to the fallen president, the portion of the bell mounted there shares quite a history with the town. A relevant connection to the dead President remains obscure, aside from the town ringing it half the day on the death of his death.
Council Grove seems dotted with all sorts of historical architectural oddities. Only a few blocks down from the bell and the cave, another structure squats beneath the water tower. The native stone Boy Scout Camp Cabin from 1937 features a fireplace constructed of native stone from each state in the the United States and seven foreign countries.
Around the corner and down the hill, Kaw Mission State Historic Site sat quiet and empty in the late afternoon sun. Once home, school, and church to 30 displaced Kaw boys in the mid 1850's, the historic mission remains shuttered tight until sometime in 2021, when it reopens in celebration of the 200th anniversary of the Santa Fe Trail.
Of course, no town would be complete with out some sort of military protection. The M60 A3 tank at Fairgrounds Park between the baseball and soccer fields should be just enough firepower to keep out unwanted guests.
The Madonna of the Trail continues to stalk recent expeditions, popping up at random intervals. Considering the significance of this location on the Santa Fe Trail, it was no surprise to find her lingering about, forever facing into the western sun.
Post Office Oak is becoming a recurring theme, as well. A strange and unique relationship existed between these old oak trees and the early days of the postal service. Life was simpler in those days. One could simply drop a parcel in a hollow at the base and be assured someone would discover the intended delivery eventually.
The Guardian of the Grove faces off opposite the Madonna of the Trail at this infamous intersection. The solemn, bronze effigy is riddle with symbolism. Available signage only hints at ulterior motives behind 30 separate attributes, memorializing the natives that once inhabited the area.
The statue guards access to the Neosho Riverwalk, which ends up at the mission encountered earlier in the afternoon. Only time enough for part of the trial remained though. A fading sun suggested a return to the urban origins from which this adventure started. Simply scouting out many of the locations had taken a great deal more time than originally intended, and more begged discovery before the burning orb disappeared entirely.
Crossing through various back routes, discovery of the lonely and desolate Mormon Trail Road easily encouraged a later look at associated history. It is a confusing situation that may never be settled. Some say it was no more than an alternate route between Fort Riley and Fort Kearny, while others insist it hosted and alternative route for Mormon travelers during the early days of the Santa Fe Trail.
A bit further along, Little Egypt Road produced no such compelling history. It may named simply for the view from this particular bend in the road, as it wanders through an area of drainage in the local landscape. A great deal of nothing exists in this quarter of Kansas causes ordinary sights such as these to stand out as extraordinary.
Nothing further enlightened the party before the sun sank out of view. A brief pause to enjoy he fading light along the rails near Paxico turned thoughts towards accommodations of a late meal, and further evening relaxation at base camp.
