Faces at Cave Hollow Park

Very little has changed at Cave Hollow Park over the past million or so years. Erosion continues the slow and steady work it set out to accomplish. Trees live and die. People come and go. Some changes appear long-lived, but most in the last century are but a blink in the eye of the geology timeline.

Little is known about the prehistoric history of the park. It is first noted as far back as 1880, when the Grand Army of the Republic set up the Colonel Grover Post nearby. The location quickly became a popular spot for adventurers, young lovers and later, more commercial enterprises. A spring supplied water for the old town of Warrensburg, and later a hospital leveraged the space for a “pest house” to rid themselves of those plagued by Small Pox. Then it filled with trash as a dumping ground. It returned as a playground sometime in the 1970s, after increasing pressure from the community.

Accessing the park is easy enough, but finding the trail that leads to the more interesting aspects requires some insider knowledge; or only a little poking around. A partially hidden paved path next to the playground leads into a deep wooded ravine. Various branches split off in different directions, most of which led nowhere.

One diversion offers a glimpse of a massive rock shelter cave, visible from the main path, similar in scope and size to that at Graham Cave State Park. This one seems a bit larger, though not as deep. A few more digressions on either end of the structure lead to the top, and smaller adjacent, shallow caves.

The main paved path abruptly ends at a park bench shortly thereafter. At first glance, it appears to open only on a small hollow, containing several smaller rock shelter caves. Closer inspection reveals other oddities.

A face or two, animals, names and symbols appear etched in the rock at every turn, along with more modern painted additions, decidedly less attractive and equally abundant. These petroglyphs seem as though they could have been chiseled by some long-forgotten tribe, but are of unknown, somewhat modern origin. It is a tradition understood to traverse the history of the space, and an intriguing display of the desire of man to be remembered.

The brief 300-meter ramble through this wooded geologic time capsule is peaceful, beguiling, and thought-provoking. It is difficult to imagine this place as anything other than it is now, much less the dumping ground it was throughout half of the 20th century.

Certain individuals have not entirely given up on the effort either, in spite of years of citizenry calling for restoration of this environment. At the opposite end of the park, not all that far away, space appears used for disposal of a variety of waste products. It is likely the most surprising aspect of the situation, since run-off could easily poison either stream or cave structure.

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further reading

Warrensburg, Missouri by Lisa Erle

Google Books

Blue Hole Quest

Evans Mountain Road near Appleton, Arkansas

Up Evans Mountain, across to White Oak Mountain, and down to Hurricane Creek

Winding north out of Appleton, the road quickly deteriorated, first to gravel, then packed earth, with a smattering of gravel here and there. A lonely road grader had been hard at work fixing the situation, so it proved no worse than driving on a slushy winter road.

Lush green of surrounding forest consumed the view on all sides. Enhanced by fog that increased with altitude, the scene stood reminiscent of the Great Smoky Mountains.

In this part of the world, signals are often blissfully lost for hours. A good atlas is a requirement, as road signs can be somewhat suspect, but sometimes offer just a bit more detail than the map.

Entrance to Blue Hole Road near Appleton, Arkansas

Blue Hole Road appeared quite the quagmire, having been the benefactor of so much rain the previous day. The 5 km descent to Hurricane Creek begins here, and the sloppy red clay mud quickly gave way to a relatively suitable gravel path through the forest, only occasionally rutted from prior use.

Field of poison ivy along Blue Hole Road

The cool and damp Ozark mountain air enabled movement at a decent clip. However, the finest crop of the evil Toxicodendron radicans ever witnessed deterred any thoughts of wandering off the trail.

Other less noxious species poked out the Sea of Itch only occasionally, adding some charm to the environment. Against a backdrop of the drip and trickle of water, coupled with morning birdsong, were the only signs of life.

Most of the forest bolts straight for the sky, competing for any scant touch of sunlight successful enough to pass through the thick green canopy. Some contort into odd sculptures to heighten advantage; or perhaps, simply for the sake of amusement, to pass the time. Trees can be great deceivers. Indeed, in collusion with the wind, they often trick a mind into believing one is nearer to rushing water than is actually true.

Blue Hole Cascades near Lost Corner in Arkansas

In appropriate range of the situation, the sound of water cascading across rocks and rippling down downstream is unmistakable. Arrival at the primary spectacle of waterfalls along Hurricane Creek required very little effort. The uncomplicated trail descent consumed roughly 90 minutes of relatively non-perilous foot travel.

What goes down must come up though. A continuous ascent of 5 km mocks any expecting to make the same progress as preceded their arrival, opening the 500 meters with a steep and and arduous climb out of the creek bed. The sun emerged halfway along to facilitate things, ensuring steamy conditions.

Lost Mountain, Arkansas

Surfacing from the forest, fluffy white clouds sailed from tree top to tree top against a canvas of blue skies. The journey down and back had been worth every moment, and the return to home base slipped by as quickly as the potential precipitation raced across the sky.

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Further Reading

Blue Hole Road

AllTrails.com

A Misguided Attempt at Eden

AR-43 South up Gaither Mountain

Gaither Mountain to South Mountain Scenic Overlook

Detouring from the usual route south out of Harrison in Arkansas, a winding path unfolded under steel gray skies that persisted throughout the afternoon.

Left to Right — Pilot Mountain, Boat Mountain, Sulphur Mountain, Fodderstack Mountain

The meandering road over the ridge of Gaither Mountain offered very few opportunities to avert eyes from the road. However, one spot along the way demanded a pause, offering up a panoramic view of distant prominent peaks to the southeast.

Stoverville Road in Ponca in Arkansas

Ponca appeared mostly deserted on arrival, with business and usual activities shuttered against the current mass hysteria. A quick review of available maps noted nearby Eden Falls, and an effort to locate the same ensued. However, a lack of specific location data and a gravel roadway that required increasingly greater clearance, conspired against and ultimately defeated the effort.

With their glory days as wagon trails long since paved over, the roadways of Arkansas are a perfect fit for the appreciative motorist. Winding along from Steel Creek Campground on the Buffalo National Rive to Jasper is just one of thousands in the state.

Elk Statuary on the Newton County Courthouse Lawn in Arkansas

In Jasper, the clouds thinned somewhat, but refused to yield any blue sky. A few interesting distraction appeared here and there, while pausing to stretch out the road and a get a little fresh air.

1909 Newton County Jailhouse in Arkansas

The two-story Newton County Jailhouse stands mostly abandoned these days. Constructed of local stone, it served the purpose well for almost 100 years, until implementation of new villain storage space in 2009.

Chaney Log House in Jasper, Arkansas

A well-maintained representation of Arkansas pioneer homestead life moved in down the street and around the corner several years ago. After living near Osage since the mid-1800s, a few enterprising folks diligently numbered and disassembled the structure, restoring it in Jasper.

New Signage at South Mountain Scenic Overlook near Marshall, Arkansas

Upon returning to the usual route, a scenic overlook frequented along the way sported new flair. A plaque now recites the heritage of the nearby rock face, while another flaunts the fantastic view and names the site.

Coronado de Oz

Lindsborg to Wamego by way of Pillsbury Wildlife Crossing

Sunny and clear skies, along with a promised high of 25 °C, offered another opportunity to chase across the northern heart of the Flint Hills of Kansas in search of waterfalls and historical landmarks.
Interstate dominated this adventure, but only as far as Emporia. The more comfortable wide-open two lane highways unfolded through to McPherson, and north to Lindsborg.

Old Mill Bridge in Lindsborg, Kansas

“Välkommen” only to pedestrian and bicycle traffic, the 1914 iron through truss bridge leading into town stood impassable, requiring a small detour to reach the highest point of the Spanish Buttes. Allegedly, Francisco Vásquez de Coronado abandoned his search for the Seven Cities of Gold at or near this 100 meter sandstone bluff.

Coronado Heights Castle near Lindsborg, Kansas

The Works Progress Administration (WPA) honored the efforts of the Spanish explorer nearly 400 years later, constructing a small castle, complete with picnic grounds and toilet facilities. A few of the picnic sites have slumped and fallen over the course of time, but the castle stands strong and commands quite a view of the surrounding prairie.

Google Maps view of I-70 Exit 316

Back to the Interstate and, pavement abruptly ended at the exit for the Deep Creek area, 100 km to the east. There was no notice of termination of said situation, which presented quite the surprise at 120 kmh. However, a few more pleasant surprises appeared in reparation of the induced anxiety.

Deep Creek Schoolhouse near Pillsbury Crossing, Kansas

Deep Creek School stands sentinel along what was once a historic trade route between the Pawnee and Wichita tribes. Their graves remain unmarked and undisturbed since the first settlers arrived in the region. This third rendition, built in 1892 of native sandstone, now serves as community center for the area it once educated.

Chris Barr’s Cabin near Pillsbury Crossing in Kansas

One such resident might have hailed from Chris Barr’s cabin, a short distance down the road, built sometime before 1863. Discovered inside of another house torn that was torn down in 1962, it had chose to conceal its identity, after spending so much time as a station along the underground railroad.

Pillsbury Crossing Wildlife Area in Kansas

The primary attraction for settlers to this particular area was very likely the fresh flowing water of the cascade at Pillsbury Crossing. The falls continue to attract a variety of wildlife, often seen cavorting in the cool waters.

Oz Oddities in Wamego, Kansas

A thirst for gasoline enabled a minor moment of discovery regarding the land of Oz. The Yellow Brick Road seemed a lot wider and longer in the movie.

Old Dutch Mill in Wamego, Kansas

Emerald City appears quite different too, having apparently expanded into more diverse industrial ventures. The 1879 windmill relocated here in 1925 from approximately seven kilometres north, being taken apart and reassembled numerically by one who enjoyed puzzles more than most.

Top: 1885 Cottonwood Dist No 11 Schoolhouse / Bottom: 1898 Hinerville Schoolhouse

One might say that early Kansans had a great affinity for stone. This region provided plenty of stock for their exploits. Nowhere is it more evident than in the schoolhouses that litter this particular region. Two more suggested a documentary pause, before the return to the Interstate homeward.

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Further Reading

Old Mill Bridge
BridgeHunter.com

Coronado Heights
Smoky Valley Historical Association

Pillsbury Crossing Wildlife Area - Kansas Wildlife, Parks & Tourism

Kansas Wildlife, Parks & Tourism

Old Dutch Mill
Wamego Historical Society & Museum

An Elk Butcher Incursion

Westbound US-54 near Toronto, Kansas

Elk Falls to Hubble Rubble through The Hollow and Butcher Falls

In the latest adventuring amidst the apocalypse, the dart chose the west southeast region of Kansas. The first 320 km followed a path through cloudy, then rainy, skies across Kansas City opening to fields of blue sky with fluffy white clouds in Chautauqua and Elk Counties.

Elk Falls Bridge and Waterfalls in Kansas

Elk Falls is quite the scenic little spot. Tucked away from the main road and associated civilization, it hosts a beautiful view of the falls from atop an 1893 iron through truss bridge crossing the Elk River.

Outhouse Voting Booth in Elk Falls

The purported ghost town of Elk Falls did not seem so much as all that, after circling the block a few times. Most buildings were relatively well kept and in use as residence or business.

Prudence Crandall Historical Marker near Elk Falls

It is a part of the world one would likely choose to get away from it all. Things can often get quite unfriendly in other parts, even in Connecticut. Prudence definitely picked a good place to retire.

The Hollow in Sedan, Kansas 

In contrast with the previous waterfall scene, the falls at The Hollow in Sedan were but a trickle into a somewhat stagnant green pool. It does hold a certain allure, as a quiet and contemplative break break from the road, within park grounds salvaged from what was once a trash dump. A 1928 school house, relocated from nearby, greets visitors and hosts the Teacher Hall of Fame for Chautauqua County.

Sedan Opera House

There appears to be a lot of history in this little town. The Sedan Opera House is one of many similar structures immediately visible from the road. The building is a 1900-era reconstruction of an original 1885 building that stood at the same location, but was destroyed by fire.

Butcher Falls near Sedan, Kansas

Butcher Falls offered up picturesque erosion scenes less than 10 km to the west. While it is on private property, the owner appears to welcome visitors. In less apocalyptic times, the empty visitor building and small refreshment stand at the entrance suggest it may be quite the destination for some.

Hubbell Rubble in Howard, Kansas

A curious scene had flown by in the haste to arrive at the first destination earlier in the day. Returning along the same route as the original descent, the array of art works suggested a pause. The displays were created by a local rancher and realtor with little more than welding know-how learned through repairing farm implements.

Woodson County Courthouse in Yates Center, Kansas

Along the path homeward, the lawn of the turn of the 20th century Woodson County Courthouse lawn served as another good spot to pause and stretch for a moment. The surrounding square stood just as empty as on the last visit to Yates Center, at a time when there was no looming apocalypse.

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Further Reading

World's Largest Living Ghost Town
Kansas Travel & Toursim

Elk Falls Bridge
Bridge Hunter

Prudence Crandall

National Women's History Museum

Sedan Opera House

Emmett Kelly Museum

Butcher Falls

Kansas Geological Survey

Hubbell Rubble

Roadside America